Tamegroute is a village of the Draa Valley roughly 20 km south of Zagora, on the road towards M'Hamid. It is small, dusty and easy to drive past, but it holds two of the most rewarding sights in the valley.
The first is its pottery: rough, irregular ceramics covered in a deep, glossy green glaze, made here in wood-fired kilns and sold across Morocco. The second is the Zawiya Naciria, the seat of an influential Sufi brotherhood whose library preserves a remarkable collection of old manuscripts. Together with the covered lanes of the old ksar, they make Tamegroute an easy and worthwhile half-day trip from Zagora.
Key facts
- Location
- Draa Valley, about 20 km south of Zagora on the road to M'Hamid.
- Known for
- Green-glazed pottery and the library of the Zawiya Naciria.
- Zawiya Naciria
- Seat of the Nasiriyya Sufi brotherhood, founded in the 17th century.
- Old ksar
- Earthen village with dark, covered passageways.
- Visit length
- Two to three hours is enough; easily combined with the Tinfou dunes.
- Etiquette
- Dress modestly; the shrine itself is closed to non-Muslims.
The green pottery of Tamegroute
Tamegroute's pottery is instantly recognisable: chunky bowls, plates, tagines and tiles with a glossy glaze that ranges from emerald and olive to almost black, often streaked and pooled where it has run in the kiln. The colour traditionally comes from metal oxides, with copper giving the green and manganese darkening it, a fitting link to a region where copper has been mined since antiquity, as at Bou N'has near Oumjrane.
The work is done in small family workshops and cooperatives where you can watch clay being prepared from local earth, pieces thrown on foot-powered wheels and stacked into domed, wood-fired kilns. Every piece is slightly different. If you buy, check for cracks and wrap items carefully; the clay is relatively soft, and some traditional glazes are made for decoration rather than everyday cooking, so ask before using a piece for food.
The Zawiya Naciria and its library
A zawiya is a Sufi religious lodge and centre of learning. The Zawiya Naciria, seat of the Nasiriyya brotherhood founded in the 17th century, made Tamegroute an important religious and scholarly centre in the south, and for centuries it drew students and pilgrims along the caravan routes of the Draa.
Its library holds a collection of old manuscripts on religion, law, astronomy, medicine and other subjects, including Qur'ans and texts said to be written on gazelle skin. Visitors can usually see a small room of the collection displayed in cases with a caretaker. The shrine and mosque are reserved for Muslims, so respect any signs and follow your guide's lead. A small donation for upkeep is customary.
The old ksar and its covered lanes
Behind the main road lies the old earthen ksar, a dense warren of houses linked by narrow, covered passageways. The roofs keep the lanes cool and shaded through the summer heat, and in places they are almost completely dark. Walking through with a local guide is the best way to see it and to avoid intruding on private homes; this is a lived-in village, not a museum.
Combining Tamegroute with the Tinfou dunes and beyond
Most visitors pair Tamegroute with the small sand dunes at Tinfou, a short drive further south. They are modest compared with the great ergs, but make an easy first taste of the sand for those not continuing deeper into the desert. Beyond, the road continues through Tagounite to M'Hamid, the gateway to the vast dunes of Erg Chigaga.
Tamegroute is also an easy stop on longer itineraries through the south. See our guides to the Draa Valley, Sahara tour itineraries and the road from Zagora to Merzouga.
Practical tips for visiting
- Getting there: drive or take a taxi south from Zagora; the village is on the main road towards M'Hamid.
- When to go: October to April is the most comfortable; in summer, visit early in the morning.
- Guides: local guides often meet visitors on arrival. Agree on what you will see and the fee up front.
- Shopping: buying directly from workshops supports local potters. There is no obligation to buy, and a polite "no, thank you" is fine.
- Respect: dress modestly, ask before photographing people, and do not photograph inside the shrine area.